Photos by Alexia Puga Ramirez Garrido
Olivia Villanti is the founder of Chava Studio, the Mexico City-based brand specializing in made-to-order womenswear known for its small batch, artful approach to shirting. Her atelier is family-owned (her in-laws have spent decades importing the best European milled fabrics to CDMX) and all of her collections are entirely hand crafted.
As a former dancer, Villanti’s inspiration comes from female choreographer’s pioneering movements, and the fabrics that enhance them. Shape and lines are core style expressions for Villanti. Discover how she grounds her own elegantly simple looks with the Folded Slide and Hugo sandals.
How would you describe your style?
It’s interesting because I tried so many different styles at various points in my life, but I feel I’ve finally (many decades later) found what feels the most like me. I’m pretty feminine, but not “girly.” There’s a distinction. I love things that exude an elegant simplicity so I’m pretty pared back and like when subtle details that speak for themselves. I have always felt denim was the backbone of my wardrobe so you’ll find a lot of it in my closet (vintage jeans and a denim jacket I wear all the time). I also like iconic pieces, things that may be recognizable because they’ve nailed their design to a certain extent. Like a Barbour jacket or a Chanel bag.
Tell us about your line, Chava Studio and how it came to be?
I’d worked in magazines as an editor and then in-house for some more mass market brands before I moved to Mexico with my husband and son. My in-laws had been importing fine fabrics into Mexico from Europe for tailors for decades and had relationships with some really incredible mills. So when I moved here I just started making my shirts here with them using their deadstock. And that was when the idea for Chava Studio was born, what if we create a made-to-order clothing company using their beautiful deadstock at their atelier? And somehow the idea took off and we had amazing press during our first few months which turned what I thought would be a side hustle into a real business.
What is your favorite shoe from Emme Parsons, and why?
It’s hard to choose because I honestly LOVE every design but I like the Folded Slide, particularly as a partner to some of our slouchier and more oversized pant silhouettes. It’s so comfortable, and the shape of the upper feels both organic and architectural. I also still love a heel (covid dress codes be damned), and the Hugo is so subtle and sexy in its delicacy. It feels feminine and is a perfect example of my personal style as described above.
What is currently inspiring you? Sartorially, culturally or otherwise?
I’ve gone deep into the Miu Miu archives here while gathering inspiration for our new collections. The colors! The proportions of the shirts! There’s a lot to glean from. As a former dancer, I’m always looking at dance for inspiration from old Pina Bausch performances to current performances by Rosas Dance, I love the use of fabric and costume. I am also a huge fan of music, I can’t work or focus without it. It helps me tap into moods and moments in a way no other medium can. Lately I’ve been listening to James Blake, Stevie Nicks and Antony and the Johnsons. But it changes regularly. I am a music addict! It could be worse.
Last great book you read?
Tomorrow, Tomorrow and Tomorrow lived up to the hype for me. I didn’t bawl as I was warned I would (and I am a crier!) but I did get immersed and really looked forward to diving into it every night.
Guilty or not so guilty pleasure?
Oh boy…self care is probably one of my biggest pleasures and moving to Mexico has allowed me to connect with some incredible healers and body workers here. So I indulge in a lot: Acupuncture, massage, aura cleansing, rolfing…I am a highly somatic person so I don’t really consider these things guilty pleasures though they are certainly indulgences that I have access to because of my privilege. I have also finally accepted the fact that, yes, you can absolutely take a break in the middle of a workday to take a nap or watch The Bear or connect with a friend. The world will not crumble!
Favorite gift to give?
Well making someone a shirt feels like a natural extension of love for me because I think a lot about the person who I am making it for, how they wear clothes and choose the fabric/cut accordingly. And if I make you a Spotify playlist, that’s my way of saying I really, really like you.
Favorite gift to receive?
I always joke that the way to my heart is through gummy candies—Haribo or Fini—mixed in a bag (you know all those fruit-flavored straws and chew strawberries and red licorice). Interestingly, nobody has ever gifted this to me haha. But if you’re reading this, now you know. I’m not complicated.
How would you spend the perfect summer day in Mexico City?
I would get up early since it’ll probably only be sunny for the first few hours of the day. I’d go for a long walk through Chapultepec Park listening to music and stop at the pond where I’m endlessly fascinated by the turtles and fish that inhabit it. I’d go eat chilaquiles somewhere (but nowhere fancy, the best ones are usually from a market stand). Then I’d take a solo visit to the Soumaya museum. Later I’d see a friend for lunch maybe at Contramar because it’s a cliche but such a great experience and enjoy a long sobremesa with a Carajillo. Then I’d go home and enjoy the rain since it always rains in the afternoons and I’d watch a show or movie with my son and maybe end the day baking something for him and eating that under a blanket while inhaling the intoxicating scent of his hair. Heaven!
